Red is the hardest wine to make alcohol-free โ€” strip the booze and you usually strip the body with it. FRE (by California’s Sutter Home) gets closer than most by starting with proper premium-vineyard wine and removing the alcohol on a spinning cone column, the gentle low-temperature method that preserves aroma.

The result leads with ripe black cherry and grape, a little smoke and spice, and enough weight to stand up to food โ€” which is where AF reds live or die. Half the calories of regular wine, under 0.5% ABV, and stocked at Waitrose so you do not have to order it specially.

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