Amaretto is mostly sugar, almond and theatre, which makes it a clever candidate for an alcohol-free version โ€” and Lyre’s Amaretti is probably the closest thing in their range to the drink it imitates. Marzipan, toasted almond and a vanilla-caramel backbone, with enough bitterness on the finish to stop it tasting like dessert syrup.

Where it earns its keep is in cocktails: an alcohol-free amaretto sour with fresh lemon and a proper foam is dangerously convincing, and it does the same trick over ice with cold espresso. At around ยฃ23.50 it is priced like the real thing, so treat it as a bar-cupboard staple rather than an impulse buy.

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